Replacing door defeat mini fuse with a mini breaker as a switch?


Just fyi... I've seen at least 2 different (but similar) switches listed under the same part number on various sites. I'd be hesitant to buy without seeing the switch. One has the pullout switch that turns off the dome lights, one only functions as a normal door jamb switch. From what I've seen, the difference is the one we want for the jeeps has a gray pin/button, the other has a black one.

That said, I also recall seeing someone else locally that had a switch that pulled out to turn off the dome lights that had a black pin/button. I'd try to verify which one you're getting before ordering.
 
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Do they need a mercedes pigtail to be spliced in?
This is the solution I'm going with! Thanks for mentioning it!

Anyone know what the 3 way connector is that factory Jeep used?

I hard spliced into the factory harness. There is a third wire in the harness that isn't compatible with the MB switch.. Key-in door chime I believe, that gets defeated but that's of no concern.

Also need to source or make a thumb screw to secure the MB switches. I 3D printed a few of them. I have the file if anyone needs it.
2023-06-19 Dome Light Switch 04.jpg



That was the vid I used for reference.

Those are on backorder since I was shopping for them.
Also, be careful.. there are two versions of the MB switch. The one with the black pin doesn't pull to lock.

Just fyi... I've seen at least 2 different (but similar) switches listed under the same part number on various sites. I'd be hesitant to buy without seeing the switch. One has the pullout switch that turns off the dome lights, one only functions as a normal door jamb switch. From what I've seen, the difference is the one we want for the jeeps has a gray pin/button, the other has a black one.

That said, I also recall seeing someone else locally that had a switch that pulled out to turn off the dome lights that had a black pin/button. I'd try to verify which one you're getting before ordering.
And just like that.. This ^^^ is correct.
 
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USP Motorsports customer support is nonexistant. This was listed in stock when I purchased. My order has not shipped. Yesterday I was on hold with them for over 2 hours when there was only 4 people ahead of me, at 5:00 (end of day) they just left me hanging. I have contacted them several times this week asking what the ETA is for my order and they never respond.

I don't think USP Motorsports is a scam website, but I do think they're maximizing profits by not hiring (m)any customer support agents.

I have asked them to cancel my order and if they don't respond I will be asking my credit card to step in.

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While I certainly understand the concerns of folks who mentioned the hassle of getting to the recommended circuit breaker idea, I have to ask this:
How many times a year do you have to open the glovebox to either remove or install the #4 fuse?

I also really like the idea of the remote switch idea from QT, but at $40 for it, I'm out.

As for the MBZ parts, again, not worth the cost IMO.

I have an alternate idea though that is very affordable:
I recently needed to add a surface mounted fuse hold on my Harley & I came up with this:
1715901742128.png


(10) for under $8...

I have as much loose wire as I would need to make a pigtail for this to mount nearly anywhere I choose, with the other ends having male spade connectors to push into the fuse panel, then use the circuit breaker as a fuse/switch.

No need to open the glovebox.
 
I also really like the idea of the remote switch idea from QT, but at $40 for it, I'm out.
I'll give you the one I made. $0

How many times a year do you have to open the glovebox to either remove or install the #4 fuse?
I leave the doors open a lot. When working on it, when camping out of it..
The MB solution is just so easy. Open the door... pull the pin. Done.
 
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We have the doors off for most of the summer, and when they're on we like the switch to operate as expected.
So easy to just pull #4 a couple times a year.