Well... It is a mopar reman and the seller had a lot of good comments... So... If the electric shop finds nothing I will proceed with the guarantee process ... But two solenoid packs with the same failure making the same effect on my jeep sounds suspicious... Like the failure being somewhere else... I dunno...You had anewremanufactured solenoid pack installed (my oem reman that Bullripper sent was junk).
Are you sure that your reman is good? I was told to only go with a new Mopar, but I hope that’s not your problem.
Maybe someone in CA, CO, NY, ME etc would be willing to get a device and go see if it passes the current CARB test. That’s how I’d approach this if I was curious, and happily be the guinea pig if I could.
What is the date on your battery? How old is your alternator?
Alternator not sure... I have 5 years with my rig and I'd never have changed it... My battery is like one year old, yesterday I checked it with the autozone scanner and it showed that the battery was almost new... Like 90% of its life...
Alternator not sure... I have 5 years with my rig and I'd never have changed it... My battery is like one year old, yesterday I checked it with the autozone scanner and it showed that the battery was almost new... Like 90% of its life...
Well... It is a mopar reman and the seller had a lot of good comments... So... If the electric shop finds nothing I will proceed with the guarantee process ... But two solenoid packs with the same failure making the same effect on my jeep sounds suspicious... Like the failure being somewhere else... I dunno...
I installed my WranglerFix PCM with "stock" tune in January 2021.
My jeep passed the California emissions test in March 2021 and again in March 2023.
I obtained the WranglerFix Performance Tune in April 2024. My jeep is not due for an emissions test until March 2025.
I'll let you know what happens.
Man, I didn't want to hear that, since Colorado follows California on most emission stuff.
I've charged a lot more than that to fix a wire. Fixing the wire only took 15-20 minutes. Finding the right wire to fix and figuring out what was pulling the 5v reference in the PCM down to where it wouldn't start was an entirely different matter.
That took some time to go over all the harnesses and find out where the problem is. I've also worked on one for over 40 hours trying to find out why the monitors wouldn't run and no one out of the 20 folks who are experts at smog and PCM's could even begin to point us in any direction that was the key to an answer. Be glad you didn't need to get that one past smog. The owner was as bad as you are though.
He couldn't fix it, the 3 shops he took it to before me couldn't fix it, the 2 dealerships they sent it to couldn't fix it. He spent 4 months trying to get it fixed before he threw in the towel and brought it to me.
I told him when he dropped it off if we couldn't fix it, no charge. If we got it fixed and past smog, he pays full pop. He paid but was not the tiniest bit happy about it and this is his "I'm going to be buried in this thing" rig. Guess who doesn't work on his rig any more?
Just drove the Jeep around some more this evening. Butt dyno can definitely tell a big difference. Did mostly 35-60mph stuff around town. I think Andy mentioned something about barely pressing the gas now. That is definitely a thing. Driving around the neighborhood at 40 I find myself letting off the gas often because you BARELY have to press it, like a hair. It's not jumpy either, its smooth. It's akin to a 3.5lb trigger on an AR vs a stock 5.5lb trigger.
Turning out of my subdivision onto a road that is 55mph I always try to accelerate and hit 55mph before a bridge with a median down the road a bit. Not 100% throttle but a bit more than average acceleration. I do this every single night on my way to work like a little game. Before, I usually just barely make it to 55mph by the time the bridge starts. Well, I tried it tonight and the Jeep easily did it without even breaking a sweat about 500ft shorter in a total distance of about 1400ft. (I measured the distance on google maps)
I haven't tried any 60mph passing power yet. Last thing I noticed is that my driveway is a steep angle, and the Jeep was always a slug getting up the curb from a dead stop then powering up the driveway to the garage. Tonight, I BARELY had to press the gas like mentioned before and it rolled up the driveway without even sounding like it was trying.
Just drove the Jeep around some more this evening. Butt dyno can definitely tell a big difference. Did mostly 35-60mph stuff around town. I think Andy mentioned something about barely pressing the gas now. That is definitely a thing. Driving around the neighborhood at 40 I find myself letting off the gas often because you BARELY have to press it, like a hair.
Well, I tried it tonight and the Jeep easily did it without even breaking a sweat about 500ft shorter in a total distance of about 1400ft. (I measured the distance on google maps)
Tonight, I BARELY had to press the gas like mentioned before and it rolled up the driveway without even sounding like it was trying.
Update.... The electrician is not sure if he will be able to fix it without pulling the engine or transmission out due to the location of the pinched wire..... And... Obviously... We haven't confirmed that this cable was actually the issue of my shifting problems...
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Have any of you guys ever done new plugs and noticed a slight power increase and crispness then after a few days you get used to it?
My gain was like 2-3 times that, nothing outrageous, but enough power it sounds throaty at idle and you notice it every time you drive it.
Very hard to verbalize or quantify by us average joes.
I genuinely think some Jeeps run better, and not all owners will notice equal gains.
A healthy guy doesn’t feel the vitamin shot like the guy who needs it more.
This is the best I got right now...This is a good start man
I’d like to think you can splice in a fix without fully removing the engine/trans.
I don’t know our rigs as well as others…would you be willing to take a photo of the damaged area from further away?
If you can’t fix it in the current position maybe you’ll be good after dropping the Tran’s down some after removing the skid/cross member.