I see a lot of hate for needle Zerks, but for me getting steel needle on a pistol-grip grease gun has made all the difference.
the cotter pin hole too high like some others experienced. I hate when this happens and I have to pop the stud off again
Why would you have to pop it off?
The washers go under the nuts.
Hey Chris, thanks for the info. I bent the tie rod on my jeep about a year ago, when I forgot the unchain my jeep before backing it off a trailer. I have started to get a little death wobble, (on top of the screeching tires when I turn) and decided its finally time to do some maintenance on the front end.
Is this an exhaustive list of all the components of the "steering linkage" or is there more? What would necessitate needing two more short ends? Can you provide some clarification on the difference in parts replaced between what you have listed, and something like this straight from Moog? https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-packagedeal039
Thanks!
That is the stock Wrangler kit. The V8 ZJ uses a heavier, solid tie rod. https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-packagedeal211
Hey Chris, thanks for the info. I bent the tie rod on my jeep about a year ago, when I forgot the unchain my jeep before backing it off a trailer. I have started to get a little death wobble, (on top of the screeching tires when I turn) and decided its finally time to do some maintenance on the front end.
Is this an exhaustive list of all the components of the "steering linkage" or is there more? What would necessitate needing two more short ends? Can you provide some clarification on the difference in parts replaced between what you have listed, and something like this straight from Moog? https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-packagedeal039
Thanks!
Right, but what is the difference in the number of ball joints replaced? I have an 04, with 100,000 miles, so its probably in my best interest to replace everything
Right, but what is the difference in the number of ball joints replaced? I have an 04, with 100,000 miles, so its probably in my best interest to replace everything
You would need 2 TREs and adjustment collars for the ZJ setup. I have no idea why the ZJ kit only includes 1.
Also, don’t buy house brand shit from your local parts store. It’s cheaper, but didn’t last a year on my Jeep. Moog parts are well worth the extra cost.
The ZJ tie rod is a tie rod fixed end on one side, one large adjuster sleeve/clamp, and a single tie rod end. The Tj setup is two tie rod ends, two tiny small clamps, one tie rod. The stock TJ tie rod is a joke for anything other than highway cruising. The "second" additional tie rod end is for the drag link. All the parts listed by Chris in the OP will bolt up to the TJ. If you wanted to replace the drag link end components and go with the ZJ tie rod you would simply purchase two of the ES3096L and also two of the sleeves. I would just swap out the tie rod components and go from there, and worry about the drag link and ball joints second. Don't forget that your track bar and steering stabilizer also make a difference despite not being steering components in the traditional sense.
The part numbers listed for the ball joints are identical in both kits. Those kits seem really overpriced for what they are. I bet you could get the parts individually for cheaper.
This is exactly the clarification I needed, thank you!
Currently my Amazon cart has the following:
1x MOOG DS1430 Steering Drag Link
1x Monroe Magnum SC2928 Steering DamperMonroe Magnum SC2928 Steering Damper
1x MOOG DS1312 Steering Tie Rod End
2x MOOG ES2079S Steering Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
2x MOOG ES3096L Steering Tie Rod End
Anything Im missing?
Make sure you paint the Moog components thoroughly as they come bare metal. The adjusting sleeve comes painted but it's very weak and will flake off. I know it sounds crazy but I paint the threads of the tie rods, the threads of the ball joints (with the boot on top to protect internals), and the castle nut and cotter pins too. They will rust out almost after the first wash if you don't. Just gotta go really light with a spray paint can when hitting the threads to avoid gobbing up.
The pitman end is replaceable, the tierod end has the ball joint as an integral part. If that lower ball joint is good, keep your old drag link, if bad, replace it.
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