Is you tranny cooler as exposed as the pic makes it look? To my eye, one rock or stick could ruin your day.
That's the normal location for that derale setup.
Is you tranny cooler as exposed as the pic makes it look? To my eye, one rock or stick could ruin your day.
That's the normal location for that derale setup.
Is you tranny cooler as exposed as the pic makes it look? To my eye, one rock or stick could ruin your day.
Release set screw
View attachment 490665
Spanner wrench
View attachment 490666
Snap ring
View attachment 490668
Pop the shaft out
View attachment 490671
Drain main body
View attachment 490672
Push reservoir seal cap in and remove snap ring
View attachment 490673
View attachment 490674
Remove seal cap and floating piston
View attachment 490676
View attachment 490677
Drain the whole thing
View attachment 490684
Disassemble the main shaft remove seals and zip tie the valve stack
View attachment 490686
View attachment 490687
View attachment 490688
I'm aware - but if you wheel that's a horrible location if it is not protected. I ran one for years, but tucked up to the bed, and even there I built a heavy guard for the thing.
Looks to be the same as rebuilding a hydro cylinder, which seems intimidating until you do it once. Are these shocks not gas charged? If they are, how will you be repressurizing them?
Looks to be the same as rebuilding a hydro cylinder, which seems intimidating until you do it once. Are these shocks not gas charged? If they are, how will you be repressurizing them?
I'm aware - but if you wheel that's a horrible location if it is not protected. I ran one for years, but tucked up to the bed, and even there I built a heavy guard for the thing.
I just raised the skid 1 inch so it’s probably time to rotate the fan so it’s flat.
Unless I'm not understanding what you mean, that won't help. The issue is that if you come down on a pointed rock, or even a stick, it will easily poke a hole in the cooler and the tranny will quickly pump out all of its fluid.
Unless I'm not understanding what you mean, that won't help. The issue is that if you come down on a pointed rock, or even a stick, it will easily poke a hole in the cooler and the tranny will quickly pump out all of its fluid.
Hell no!
I'll keep my 32RH thank you very much!
Pussy.
You spelled rock crawling wrong
Pussy.
@RINC wants an Auto this is how he expresses himself
Now back to the shock rebuild.
Replace all the seals and O-rings on the main shaft making sure to orientate the shim stack and piston the same way they came apart and tighten the nut.
View attachment 491762
Wipe out the shock body and reservoir .
View attachment 491763
I filled the reservoir with oil and let it flow into the shock pushing the air out.
View attachment 491764
I inserted the IFP into the full reservoir and the used my IFP tool (1/4-20 all thread) to cycle the IFP in and out several times to purge all the air out of the hose.
View attachment 491768
View attachment 491769
View attachment 491770
when I was confident I had all the air out I set the IFP depth. The Spec on an 11" Reservoir is 8" deep. I found if you set it to 9" when you do the main shaft seal insertion it will push it back just a little.
View attachment 491771
Then I added more oil to the main shock body, just about 3" from the top.
View attachment 491772
Then inserted the main shaft and let it sink into the oil.
View attachment 491773
I cycled the shaft in and out to bleed any air out.
View attachment 491774
Once the air was out.
View attachment 491791
I slid the bottom bushing/seal housing into place.
View attachment 491778
I made sure the shock housing was completely full of oil. There is a hole in the lower bushing/seal housing that as you insert it will bleed any remaining air and excess oil out. In my case, right down the front of me and all over my bench. This will assure the system has no air in it. Push the housing in until you get it past the snap ring groove. This is where it pushed my IFP back to the 8" line. Then I inserted the snap ring.
View attachment 491796
Next I threaded the bottom wiper seal housing on and tightened with a spanner and retightened the set screw.
View attachment 491798
Then I inserted the reservoir cap.
View attachment 491795
Pushed it in far enough to fit the snap ring.
View attachment 491787
Pulled the cap back against the snap ring and put the schrader valve back in.
View attachment 491788
And Bamm! One down and three more to go.
View attachment 491789
I am no expert by any means but they took me about an hour to do each one after the first. I learned a lot and the process got smoother as I went.
Just learning about where to set the IFP and how much fluid to put in and not end up wearing half of it was huge. This can be a very messy project .
I took them over and had 200 p.s.i. nitrogen charge put in them and back on the TJ.